Matobo National Park

Matobo National Park – February 20

After a peaceful, sound sleep, we were up, packed for the day and eating breakfast by 8:00. Today was the game drive with our guide for the day. Ian picked us up at 9:00 and we eagerly climbed into the front seats of the jeep. Ian was a pleasure to listen to; a human being capable of pushing the refresh button in your well-being. He was excited to tell us all about his homeland;the history, the flora and fauna, his childhood, his friends in the village, and his dear friends, the rhinos. Along the way, he pulled over frequently, opened his jeep door to sit on and told us stories. He picked wild fruits including guava, and amaretto for us to taste. We drove through the park and out the other side into a village. Ian knew everyone and if he didn't wave shouting his salutations in the local language, he stopped to have a chat and share some laughter out loud that caused us to giggle and we didn't know what he was talking about. Genuine laughter is indeed, contagious.

At half day, we stopped and climbed a huge rock to a cave with many paintings. I looked down at my shoes and am sure my feet were at least pointed in 70 degree angle. The paintings were left by the San people who had inhabited here for over 200,000 years. It is thought that the paintings are preserved by mixing the color with urine and bile. The acid in the bile preserves the paint over time. As a people the San people live for today and believe if they stay in one place too long, they begin to affect the environment, so move on to a different place. When they leave they leave paintings to reveal what food they have found in the area and what their experiences have been. They share everything and are mindful of the next one to follow in their footsteps. They live in harmony with nature; the circle of life.

Our guide is an excellent storyteller, the kind who provokes thought. I gained a new appreciation for history, listening to him tell of his deductions, observations, experiences and readings. After on more look at the view and attempt to imprint it in my memory I followed the others to the bottom for our picnic lunch. Some village people (from the local Ndebele tribe) had spotted us on the way in and by now had a beautiful display of crafts for our shopping pleasure. I hesitated because I knew that while we would purchase something, I would walk away feeling like I had fed one family and not another. Its hard to feel entirely good about that. However, maybe I'm thinking about it incorrectly; maybe they share everything they earn selling their crafts.

As we drove into the village again, a few people had gathered outside their communal gathering to do a little dance for us. We were welcomed into the kitchen hut and circled around to listen to the chief talk in his language and laugh with Ian. The huts are made with the soil collected from termite mounds (this soil contains termite secretion that acts like a cement), cow dung and water. They are circular, with a cone shaped roof made of layered grasses twined together. Apparently it keeps them dry and also allows the smoke from the fire to vent. As we left, they did another dance and waved with very white toothy smiles.

We drove further, back into the park to visit the grave site of Cecil Rhodes and hear the story about the life of Rhodes. Very fascinating!!! Rhodes is buried in the rock at the top of a cliff overlooking a beautiful panorama. This is where we sat to hear his life story.

Next was our very focused search for Rhino. We drove down several back roads within the park in our search, but without luck. On the way out of the park our guide asked the gate keepers where the last siting had been. Apparently two rhino had been sited outside the park yesterday, so off we went to “Three Sisters” (a location that meant something to our guide). He eventually pulled over and said, “Everyone willing to climb that; the rhino may be on the other side?” Off we went. I let everyone go ahead of me because I wanted to be sure of my footing; no interest in requiring any kind of physical repair while travelling. It got steep and then all I could think of was, “Oh my God, how will I get down?” Our guide turned up reaching out his hand and saying, “There's three rhino on the other side.” “Don't worry about getting down.” Apparently getting down isn't a problem so within seconds I was at the top and there they were; a Mama white rhino and her baby. We saw a black rhino in Etosha so we have been very fortunate. While we see these animals at the zoo and at African Lion Safari, there is something exhilarating about seeing them in the wild where they are dependent on being allowed the freedom to exist in their rich habitat, using their adaptations and traditions to survive. Sadly, their biggest threat is humans who upset their balance by poaching to such an extent that they are endangered.

Carefully, we descended the rock cliff and drove back to camp with the sun setting on our left and the wind pulling our hair back. Truly, this was a memorable day!

                                               Ian, LA; jeep trasport for the day